Felgaria

Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France2023, la RVF 1 étoile 93 «L’association du Mourvèdre d’altitude et des schistes défend une identité complexe et racée. Malgré les tanins fondus, le vin demeure puissant, et devra s’assagir dans les dix prochaines années»

Jancis Robinson MW 17 “A wine for the future” Deep, dark crimson. Extremely spicy and heady on the nose. Still with some tannin very much left to work its way through the fruit. A wine for the future. The schist of Faugères seems less obvious on this cuvée than on some others of Brigitte Chevalier’s –perhaps because the fruit is so ripe and overwhelming. Nice saline touch on the end after the spice and tannin.

Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France 2022, la RVF 1 étoile 93 » On est bien sur le schiste : une texture onctueuse, des tanins fins et une fraîcheur épicée»

Jancis Robinson MW 17,5 (TC) “Occasionally I’ll taste a wine that, on the first sip, makes my eyes prickle with tears – before a single thought or word has even crossed my mind. An instant, sheeremotion reaction. Almost a shock reaction. This was one of those wines… It glitters with schist minerality, which is wrapped in fruit that feels like black-silk ribbons and tastes like ink-dipped lavender and blueberries and blackcurrants … It has the olive-green bitter resin of juniper needles, uneven crystals of black salt and the slow curlicues of a person who still writes their letters by hand, , each word carefully, pensively pressed into beautiful, heavy-weave woven paper. A dusty finish that fills every corner with reverberations that go on, and on… (TC)

James Suckling 92 «Pretty full-bodied, with firm, creamy tannins framing the juicy berry fruit. Tightly wound and comfortably chewy””

Rosemary George MW « Medium colour. Quite firm, fresh red fruit, on the nose. And on the palate, quite tannic and structured with youthful ageing potential and underlying elegance. Brigitte considers that schist softens the tannins of the Mourvèdre »

Zeit Magazin, Gero von Randow « Den Höhepunkt markiert der Felgaria….erinnert an weißen Pfeffer, Cumin, Nüsse, hat auch Frucht, aber der vorwiegende Eindruck ist abstrakter, es ist die hinreißende Harmonie dieses Weines. Ein Wein zum Hinterhersinnen.

Nadine Franjus, les 5 du Vin : « La robe rouge sombre est encore violine, signe de la jeunesse. Au nez, il y a de la violette avec de la prune et puis des notes épicées, du poivre noir et de la tapenade. La bouche surprend par sa tenue à la fois souple et serrée. On pense à la minéralité, le feuilleté de schiste serré, la fraicheur de la pierre et sa profondeur. Voilà une expression exemplaire du Mourvèdre sur schistes, sans concession mais avec douceur»

Michel Smith, les 5 du Vin «Tout est ici affirmé avec maîtrise : on retrouve au début toute la vibrante tanicité du Mourvèdre, puis un élégant développement en bouche sur une finale au fruit rouge discret où l’on se réjouit enfin de la sage distinction des tannins du cépage, résultat d’un élevage bien dosé en pièces usagées de 500 litres. Assurément un vin de garde (encore au moins 10 ans) pour une bécasse, voire un perdreau. Tirage de 4.000 bouteilles environ et un prix à la hauteur du travail »

Guide Meilleurs Vins de France 2021, RVF 1 étoile 93 « Intense, raffiné, il se révèlera avec le temps»

La RVF avril 2021 Vins d’altitude 93/100 « La riche palette d’épices douces rappelle le Maghreb ! La bouche est marquée par le santal et a rose, avec une structure de moyenne puissance pour cette cuvée à majorité de mourvèdre et syrah plantés à 300 m. Sa structure fine bénéficie d’un bel appui de fruits rouges, de cade et de girofle. Saluons ce vin aux notes délicatement fumées, à la finale équilibrée et salivante ! »

La RVF fév 2022 Sophie de Salettes Les Dessous du Terroir – A déguster en priorité : Felgaria 2017, Les Bancèls 2019, A la Venvole 2020

Jancis Robinson MW 17,5 (TC) : » Deep and rich and pretty glorious. If black silk was liquid and could be tasted, this would be it. Lustrous, glowing and the very essence of black pepper. A wine that moves like silk in the mouth and yet whispers stories of rocks and dust and dry garrigue and cold winds and wide skies. Wild and polished. A bit of a jaguar” (TC).

James Suckling 91 « A delicious and spicy Mourvèdre. Textured and juicy wit firm, grainy tannins and bright acidity. Vibrant and vivid finish with some wild blue and purple fruit”

Rosemary George MW “Good colour. More rounded nose and palate with some firm tannins and nicely balanced fruit. Again good ageing potential. The stalks can add some salinity.”

Alan March, Amarchinthevines “Felgaria, the flagship wine and a demonstration of the quality of Mourvèdre which makes up at least half of the wine along with Syrah and Grenache. Brigitte credits three factors for producing top quality Mourvèdre, the altitude, the schist soils and the old south facing vines soaking up sunshine. Most of her vines face north, including the Syrah and Grenache topping up Felgaria but Mourvèdre, and especially these very old vines, seems to enjoy a dry, warm situation. It also produces a vibrant red coloured juice and Felgaria is rich in colour with equally enticing aromas and flavours ranging from blackcurrant to citrus, spicy with hints of meatiness, leather and herbs. The 2017 we tasted was plummy, rich and still an infant. Felgaria demands patience and time for it to reach its peak”.

Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France 2020, RVF 1 étoile Coup de cœur 16 « Ce 2016 va aller loin. Intense et charnu avec une belle puissance épicée»

Jeb Dunnuck 96 pts “An incredible wine and the finest wine to date from winemaker Brigitte Chevalier”

Jancis Robinson MW 17,5 (TC) “Complex and thought-provoking” (TC) Very appealing indeed with quite a bit of fine tannin on the finish but beautifully judged, opulent but not overripe. Very flattering with some real terroir grip on the end “. 17 (JR)

James Suckling 91”A pleasant lend of Mourvèdre and syrah with aromas and flavors of dried black cherries with lightly spicy, licoricy notes. Medium-to full-bodied with firm, velvety tannins and a clean finish. Despite the rather stern tannins, the fruit continues to push through.”

Rosemary George MW “Medium colour. The nose is beginning to develop some tertiary aromas, with some leathery notes. Red fruit and spice and quite firm tannins. A balance of ripe fruit and tannins. Youthful balance and a long finish”

Jeb Dunnuck (TWA) (94-97) “Deep, rich, concentrated, incredibly layered and seamless, it has no hard edges, impeccable balance and a killer finish. Wow, what a wine!”

Jean-Marc Quarin # 226 16,75 //93 “Superbe découverte. Un des meilleurs vins du Sud que je connaisse “ Pour mémoire, Felgaria est le meilleur de la production de ce domaine.Le ressenti de la précision de son fruité et de sa texture est toujours aussi émouvant. Et cette longue finale qui enchante… A goûter et à garder avant 2040 «

# 275 16.75 //93 Coup de cœur « Couleur sombre, intense et vive. Nez très aromatique, pur, fin, subtil et noble. Très belle entrée en bouche ample où le vin se développe fondant, pulpeux, noble au toucher, avec beaucoup de goût. Il fond en finale, complexe, profond, comme minéral et surtout incrachable. Superbe découverte. Un des meilleurs vins du Sud que je connaisse ». 2020-2040

Jancis Robinson MW 17,5 (TC) “Stunning. Long and vibrant and elegant and fabulous. One of the best wines in this Sud de France Top 100 line-up” (TC). “Masses of vibration and tension and unusual persistence” 17 (JR)

Guide 2019 des Meilleurs vins de France, la RVF coup de cœur 15.5 pts « la rencontre du mourvèdre et du schiste est très réussie : notes poivrées, tanins fondus, persistance épicée »

Le Rouge & le Blanc 14/20 “Bouche charnelle, veloutée – vin salivant“ #133

L’Express Nov 2018 – Coups de cœur de l’Express « Une superbe expression du cépage Mourvèdre. Le terroir de schistes apporte tension et droiture, la date de récolte, appropriée, permet au cépage d’être épice, mais pas trop tannique et l’ensemble jouit d’un équilibre subtil »

Le Monde des Vins janv 2018 – Supplément Bio « Quel bonheur de sentir le mourvèdre traité avec tant de délicatesse! Il y a beaucoup d’équilibre, de subtilité dans ce vin. On ressent une grande pureté en le buvant. D’autant qu’il recèle des arômes très fruités, et une bouche gourmande. Un appel au«reviensy»!

Le Rouge & le Banc été 2019 « Nez crémeux et concentré qui s’ouvre sur le laurier, les épices douces, les fruits noirs.Bouche charnelle, veloutée, élégante. Finale resserrée. « Vin salivant ». 14 / 20

Jeb Dunnuck (TWA) 94 “Possessing full-bodied richness, an utterly seamless texture with building fine tannin, this is a killer little Faugères”.

Gold Medal / Médaille Or Decanter DWWA 2017 Score 95/100

Jancis Robinson MW 16.5+ (TC) “There’s some lovely fruit closed up in there, but for the moment it’s struggling to break through” (TC) Tasting date 2017

Jean-Marc Quarin # 226 16,50 //92 Coup de cœur ” Couleur sombre, intense. Nez très intense, fruité, épicé, avec une touche de poivre blanc. Moelleux à l’attaque, fondant au développement, rappelant la saveur de l’Ermitage, ce vin se développe suave et très bien construit. Il s’achève conquérant en finale, séveux dans sa texture, avec un goût de cerise et des tannins fins. 2018-2035. ”

Le Rouge & Le Blanc 14.5 « bouche élancée, gourmande, très belle tonicité » #133

Guide 2018 Les Meilleurs vins de France, la RVF 13/20

Le Rouge & le Banc été 2019 « Nez concentré et riche sur les petits fruits noirs, les herbes aromatiques, les baies sauvages. Notes empyreumatiques. Bouche élancée, gourmande. Très belle tonicité. Vin d’une grande digestibilité et bien équilibré. ». 14,5/20

Felgaria 2012 Guide 2018 des Meilleurs vins de France, la RVF Coup de Cœur 16 pts « le finesse de ce corps élancé, la saveur pointue et racée de la chair sont admirables. C’est un Faugères de grande distinction »

Guide Hubert 2017 – Ténor de l’année 18/20

In Vino Veritas 2016 « Les schistes canalisent la puissance de ce cépage dans une matière à la fois pleine et dynamique, aux tannins fins et racés, aux arômes de fruits – framboise, cassis-, d’épices douces, au toucher soyeux. Un beau vin de garde, même en 2013.»

Vinum, Thomas Vaterlaus 17.5 Punkte „Brigitte Chevalier hat in Faugères nordorientierte Lagen mit alten Reben gesucht, bei denen der pure Schiefer bis zur Oberfläche reicht. Die Cuvée aus Mourvèdre (75%) und Syrah zeigt, welche filigrane Eleganz der Mourvèdre im puren Schiefer zeigt. Florale Note, rote Beeren, im Gaumen pure Finesse“ 2017 bis 2030

Gault & Millau automne 2017 Yohann Castaing «Du charme, de l’élégance, de la douceur aussi. Bouche soyeuse, légèrement poivrée, hyper précise. Un must have » 16.5

Decanter Feb 2017 (Simon Woolf) 93 « Extraordinarily elegant rendition of Mourvèdre, with the complex, dark fruit you’d expect, plus delicate orange zest and redcurrant aromas and silky structure”

Jancis Robinson MW 17.5 (TC) “Comforting wine that reminds me of an armchair you curl into by the fire” (TC) | “This really does smell like Mourvèdre! But mountain Mourvèdre … Much lighter than most wines from this variety. Delicate and, again, incredibly persistent” 16,5 JR.

Jeb Dunnuck (TWA #224) 92 “It’s one of the few wines from this estate that’s vinified and aged in demi-muids. Black raspberries, cassis, crushed rock and damp earth all emerge from this medium to full-bodied, fresh, elegant effort, and it has good acidity and ripe tannin. It should be at its best from 2018-2025 “

Decanter 2017, Simon Woolf 93 « Extraordinarily elegant rendition of Mourvèdre (50% of the blend), with the complex, dark fruit you’d expect, plus delicate orange zest and redcurrant aromas and silky structure. Most of the blend was whole-bunch fermented. Drink 2018-2025”

Jeb Dunnuck (TWA # 218) 92 « Chevalier’s Felgaria cuvee is based mostly on Mourvèdre, and is the richest, most structured wine in the lineup. It’s also aged 10 months in new oak. Big, rounded, supple and mouth filling, with lots of minerality in its black and blue fruits, wild herbs, licorice and underbrush aromas and flavors, it covers the palate in fruit, has medium to full-bodied richness and tons of character. It should have no problems continuing to knock your socks off through 2022”

Jancis Robinson MW 17 (JH) “There’s a wilder, darker hedgerow fruit character here, thanks to the two varieties. A smoky stony quality too. The most amazingly sillky tannins – so much so that you almost miss them, but the wine lingers with a savoury quality that will surely become more meaty with age. Extreme subtlety”. (JH Wine & Spirits June 2016 “The 2012 Felgaria needs lots of air to open up, the schist tannins clamping down on the black fruit. With time in the lass, it gets juicier, meatier and earthier, with savory black pepper and leather notes that bring a seared steak to mind. Leave it in the cellar for a few more years.”

Jeb Dunnuck (TWA #212) 94 “One of the most impressive wines in the appellation, the 2011 Faugeres Felgaria is a blend of equal parts Mourvedre and Syrah that spent 11 months in 500-liter demi-muids. Decadently rich and layered, with thrilling notes of spiced raspberries, licorice and crushed rock-like minerality, this full-bodied, sweetly fruited and voluptuous Faugeres has a rock star texture and a gorgeous finish. Hard to resist now, it should evolve gracefully for upwards of a decade. Don’t miss it! I was blown away by these efforts from oenologist Brigitte Chevalier. Creating this domaine in 2006, she has a bevy of old vines located in the cooler, higher elevation and more northern portion of the appellation. She fashions ripe, yet polished and beautifully balanced wines that savvy readers need to seek out!”

Jancis Robinson MW 17.5 “Bright crimson. Very rich and lively – a wonderfully gentle hand here. Reminds me just a little of Isabelle Ferrando’s Châteauneufs. Big but delicate. Bravo! Tannins well managed. Hugely hedonistic”.

Decanter, sept 2013, Andrew Jefford MW 17.5 (91) “This Mourvèdre-rich cuvée from Brigitte Chevalier’s outstanding Cébène is one of Faugères’ reference cuvées and a Languedoc fine wine by any measure. The style is much less extractive and much more aerial –refined and suave aromas that mingle earth, flowers, sweet black fruits and fine suede, while the flavours are taut and dramatic, almost explosive in their concentrated force. Drink 2013–2020

Decanter Panel Tasting, July 2013, My top three, Andrew Jefford “There are few more thoughtful or wide-horizoned winemakers hereabouts than Brigitte Chevalier, and her 2011 Felgaria is a magnificently complex, intricately crafted example of its terroir: a wine that is both perfumes and profound”.

M du Magazine le Monde mars 2013: » L’éblouissant – Très très grand vin (bio aussi). D’une longueur éblouissante. Il est profond, élégant, équilibré. Les tanins y sont extraordinairement bien travaillés »

Le Rouge & le Blanc été 2019 « Nez mentholé et frais qui se développe sur le floral. Un vin énergique, tendu, savoureux, avec une belle longueur en bouche et une finale légèrement grillée. Vin d’avenir ».

Jeb Dunnuck (TWA #218) 90 “Surprisingly, I found the 2010 Faugères Felgaria to be more upfront, charming and straightforward than the 2009. It offers lots of sweet black raspberry, cassis, licorice and crushed flower-like notes to go with a medium-bodied, polished and elegant feel on the palate. This might gain a smidge more depth and richness with another year in the cellar, yet I still see no need to delay gratification here”

Jancis Robinson MW 17 “Healthy crimson with a very pale rim. Mourvèdre in a tutu on the nose. Sweet, charming, fully evolved start and such finesse! With a little saline chew on the end. Truly a wine of place more than a varietal expression. Perhaps at its peak now but going nowhere fast. Wafts over the palate for a good minute after being tasted.”

The Morning Claret, Simon J Woolf “Domaine de Cébène Felgaria Faugères 2010 is the top cuvée, and with 50% Mourvèdre in the blend (the rest is Syrah and Grenache), you wouldn’t expect “feminine” to be an appropriate descriptor. Yet that’s the first thing in my tasting notes. The aroma is somewhat perfumed, the flavours still wild and savoury, but held beautifully in check, with freshness and poise. How does Brigitte achieve the lightness of touch in these wines? She has old vines, with low yields, farms organically and uses wild yeasts and minimal sulphur. All winemaking choices which seem to help wines speak of themselves and their origins. Fermentation is mostly in whole bunches, again an attempt to preserve fruit characters with as little intervention as possible”.

Jeb Dunnuck (TWA #218) 93 “The 2009 Faugères Felgaria offers lots of black fruits, spring flowers, truffle and assorted meatiness to go with a medium to full-bodied, ripe, textured style on the palate. This is a beauty wine that does everything right, and while it doesn’t pull any punches on the ripeness scale, it’s always fresh, lively and balanced. It will have over a decade of longevity. One of my favorite producers in Faugères, Domaine de Cébène is run by the passionate and talented Brigitte Chevalier”

Jancis Robinson MW 17+ (RH) “Beautifully succulent fruit – really opening up and showing the full range of fruit and perfume that the younger vintages haven’t yet attained. Milk chocolate, violet and cassis fruit. Very lengthy finish – and plenty of development yet to come. (RH)

Decanter 2012, Andrew Jefford MW “Felgaria 2009 **** 17,5 Fresh, spicy fruit nose, brambly flavours and a tannic streak. Nicely balanced and characterful”

Le Point Guide des Vins 2012 « Nez fin, élégant, fruits rouges, sureau, myrtille, beaucoup de fraîcheur, note florale, pivoine, charnu, délicat, tanins serrés, long, minéral » 16.5

Le Rouge & le Blanc été 2019 « Nez évolué de petits fruits noirs, de prunes, de tabac blond, d’épices. Bouche veloutée, fraîche et équilibrée. Finale longue et énergique. »

Jeb Dunnuck (TWA # 195) 89 “Rich yet fresh and invigoratingly tart-edged plum and cherry are palpably underlain with greater extract and finer tannins in the Cebene 2008 Faugeres Felgaria than I sensed in most of their other early releases, very much including the more sweetly ripe and superficially fuller 2009. Piquant cherry pit and crushed stone add counterpoint in a persistently stimulating finish. This should remain lovely for at least a couple more years. Veteran oenologue Brigitte Chevalier (about a few of whose many projects I have written in the past) established her own Domaine de Cebene in 2006”

Jancis Robinson MW 16.5 (TC) « Concentrated mulberry scent and a little bit fumey. But jewelled fruit. A tarry crust with slate-dust minerality and bold dark berry core. Very structured and defined. Liquorice. (TC) »